Ham Cuts. Cartographies of a Symbolic Food

Authors

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.31637/epsir-2024-849

Keywords:

Anthropology of food, Slicing, Spectacle, GO, Innovation, Ham, Memory, Heritagization

Abstract

Introduction: This inquiry is framed within the triangle of production, distribution, and consumption, focusing on an emblematic food of our geography: pork ham. Specifically, we address from the Anthropology of food an aspect related to the consumption of this gastronomic reference: slicing. We aim to delve into this aspect, as it has been little or not at all addressed in studies on ham. Methodology: This is a qualitative study utilizing fundamental ethnographic research techniques, such as observation and in-depth interviews. Results: We explore the main types of ham in our country and their qualities, identifying different types of slicing and the principles behind each one. Discussion: We problematize the heritagization of ham, the hegemony and subalternities of the slicing methods, as well as the luxurious and spectacular experience it is becoming. Conclusions: The slicing of ham is a lens through which to analyze social values linked to this symbolic food. This is an initial investigation from which we envisage other future research horizons, such as the presence of female slicers and the ecological and social sustainability of new activities centered on the spectacularization in our consumer societies.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

Author Biographies

Evelina Zurita Márquez, University of Malaga

PhD in Social Anthropology from the University of Seville. Associate Professor of Social Anthropology. Member of the Research Group Ethnography and Mediations of Communication and Development (Etnomedia - C, D), PAIDI Group SEJ-343. Professor in the area of Social Anthropology at the University of Malaga. She teaches at the Degree in Gastronomic Sciences and Hotel Management, Degree in Criminology, Degree in East Asian Studies and Master in Equality and Gender. Her areas of work and interest focus on the analysis of problems from their social contexts: gender and violence in couples, as well as anthropological study of ecological-cultural contexts of social expressions: rituals and food.

Francisco Manuel Llorente Marín, University of Malaga

D. in Social Anthropology from the University of Seville. Professor of Social Anthropology. Member of the Research Group Ethnography and Mediations of Communication and Development (Etnomedia - C, D), PAIDI Group SEJ-343. Professor in the area of Social Anthropology at the University of Malaga. He teaches in the Degree in Gastronomic Sciences and Hotel Management, Degree in Criminology, Degree in Social Work and Master in Social and Community Research and Intervention. Her areas of work and interest are focused on studying the relationship between tourism and ecological-cultural development; anthropological-social analysis of festive rituals and approaching food and gastronomy as social forms of symbolic expression. She has also conducted ethnographic research on the social construction of violence in border contexts.

References

Amaya, S. y Aguilar, E. (2012a). La construcción de la calidad alimentaria. Tradición, innovación y poder en las DOP del jamón ibérico en España. Revista de Economía Agrícola, 59(2), 39-52. http://hdl.handle.net/11441/49467

Amaya, S. y Aguilar, E. (2012b). Patrimonializando saberes locales, resignificando tradición e innovación. El caso del jamón ibérico, Etnicex: revista de estudios etnográficos, 4, 63-75. https://acortar.link/3QnnFI

Barthes, R. (2006). Por una Psico-Sociología de la Alimentación Contemporánea. Empiria. Revista de Metodología de Ciencias Sociales, 11, 205-221. https://www.redalyc.org/pdf/2971/297125210010.pdf DOI: https://doi.org/10.5944/empiria.11.2006.1114

Bourdieu, P. (1998), La distinción: criterios y bases sociales del gusto. Taurus.

Conde, D. y Mariano, L. (2023a). Las recetas del hambre. Crítica.

Conde, D. y Mariano, L. (2023b, 21 de mayo). Lechuzas, burros y lagartos. Así era la comida de posguerra[audio]. Cadena Ser. https://cadenaser.com/audio/1684658993901/

Espeitx, E. (1996). Los nuevos consumidores o las nuevas relaciones entre campo y ciudad a través de los productos de la tierra. Agricultura y sociedad, 80-81, 83-116. https://acortar.link/evbGJc

Espeitx, E. (2011). Productos ‘de la tierra’ y alimentos transgénicos: tradición e innovación como atributos valorados y como factores de riesgo. En E. Espeitx y J. Cáceres. Sabores culturales. Ensayos sobre alimentación y cultura (pp. 118-158). Montesinos.

Estrabón (2015). Geografía de Iberia. Alianza Editorial.

Fischler, C. (2010). Gatro-nomía y gastro-anomia. Sabiduría del cuerpo y crisis biocultural de la alimentación moderna. Gazeta de Antropología, 26(1),. http://hdl.handle.net/10481/6789 DOI: https://doi.org/10.30827/Digibug.6789

Freire, J. (2023). La banalidad del bien. Páginas de Espuma.

García Calvo, A. (1983). Historia contra tradición, tradición contra historia. Lucina.

García Ortigosa, E. (2023). Anatomía del jamón. Latinfly.

Gázquez, A. (2007). El jamón en la gastronomía española. En IV Jornadas Ibéricas Razas Autóctonas y sus productos tradicionales: innovación, seguridad y cultura alimentaria, (pp. 263-274). http://hdl.handle.net/11441/53344

Hernández-Ramírez, J. (2018). Cuando la alimentación se convierte en gastronomía. Procesos de activación patrimonial de tradiciones alimentarias. Revista Cultura-Hombre-Sociedad, 28(1), 154-176. https://doi.org/10.7770/cuhso-v28n1-art1236 DOI: https://doi.org/10.7770/0719-2789.2018.cuhso.01.a01

Lipovetsky, G. (2020). Gustar y emocionar. Ensayos sobre la sociedad de seducción. Anagrama.

Michaud, Y. (2015). El nuevo lujo. Experiencias, arrogancia, autenticidad. Taurus.

Published

2024-09-27

How to Cite

Zurita Márquez, E., & Llorente Marín, F. M. (2024). Ham Cuts. Cartographies of a Symbolic Food. European Public & Social Innovation Review, 9, 1–20. https://doi.org/10.31637/epsir-2024-849

Issue

Section

Humanism and Social Sciences